TRAVEL LIKE — @SOMMVIVANT 

Paso Robles is no stranger to glowing praise, but when wine expert and content creator Amanda McCrossin returned for her fifth visit, something clicked: this region isn’t just keeping up with the world’s great wine destinations,  it’s redefining what modern wine travel can be.

From design-forward hotels and bold wine experiences to innovative dining, glowing art installations, and curated adventures you won’t find anywhere else, Amanda’s three-day journey showcases Paso Robles at its absolute best.

Here’s how she spent three unforgettable days discovering why Paso continues to surprise, delight, and evolve with every visit.

When people ask me where to go wine tasting, I’m always shocked to learn they’ve never considered (or sometimes even heard of) Paso Robles.

Because here’s the thing: Paso is one of the most exciting wine regions in California right now. It’s got serious wine cred (more on that later), a vibrant culinary scene (hello Michelin stars), and that perfect mix of luxury and laid-back energy that makes you feel like you’ve discovered something special. And on my fifth trip there, my suspicion was confirmed — this place really does keep getting better.

A lesser, more complacent wine region might be content to rest on a few Michelin stars, world-class cocktails that rival major cities, and that slightly less flashy marker I always look for: great coffee. But not Paso. On top of all that, plus its truly special vineyards, oak-dotted hills, and endlessly unique tasting experiences, Paso has something that many regions can’t (or perhaps don’t care to) compete with: a willingness to color outside the lines, to innovate, and to evolve alongside the world around it. Its playful, even slightly irreverent nature doesn’t diminish the quality of the winemaking or grapegrowing; it actually enhances it.

You’d think that in an industry fueled by tourism, more wine regions would follow suit. But the wine world, for all its romance and beauty, can be stubbornly slow to change. Maybe that’s a conversation for another day. What I’ll say is this: I’ve visited countless wine regions around the world, but few keep calling me back like Paso does.

And getting there couldn’t be easier. Fly into San Luis Obispo Airport (SLO); a tiny, perfect airport that feels more like a private terminal than a hub. American Airlines flies in via Phoenix and Dallas, and from there it’s just about a 30-minute drive to Paso Robles. Easy. Stress-free. Blissfully uncrowded. (Also: the rental car lot is literally steps from baggage claim. A dream.)

So here’s how I’d do Paso in three days, perfectly balanced between wine, food, and a few surprises you won’t find anywhere else.

Day 1: Check-In, Sip, Repeat

Stay: The Ava Hotel

Paso’s new kid on the block — and she’s stunning. Think design-forward meets laid-back luxury, with a rooftop bar (Esperanza) that’s worth a visit even if you’re not staying overnight. Perfectly located downtown, just steps from the square, you can walk everywhere: tasting rooms, restaurants, shops, you name it. Though it feels truly boutique, The Ava flies the Hilton flag, so loyalists can earn points or even cash them in for a stay.

Wine Tasting: Hope on Park

Your first glass of the trip belongs here, just a few minutes’ walk from The Ava and conveniently located on the square. The OGs know Austin Hope was one of the first to make Paso a household name, and this new downtown tasting room called Hope on Park has all the right over-the-top energy with feathered lamps, bold wallpaper, and yes, caviar service.

And speaking of service, while you could absolutely cozy up to the bar as a walk-in, a reservation in the back room (accessed through a secret entrance and a Champagne saber, naturally) is highly recommended. The experience is tailored and top-notch, with fun surprises like blind tastings and even a “sniff test.” I can’t make this stuff up.

Golden Hour: Esperanza

Kick off the evening with guac and a spicy marg at Esperanza on the Rooftop, back at The Ava. This is the spot for golden hour with breezes blowing and fireplaces roaring. At 6pm on a Tuesday this place was electric, so lean in, bop to the music, and enjoy the view over downtown.

Dinner: Fish Gaucho

For dinner we’re heading a few blocks over to Fish Gaucho, a longtime Paso favorite that’s equal parts lively and delicious. Friends and followers have been recommending this place for years and I’m disappointed I didn’t listen sooner. Don’t be fooled by the name, the menu leans California-Mexican (and is surprisingly NOT heavy on the fish) with a tequila and mezcal selection that’s borderline dangerous (in the best way). Don’t skip the posole which was comforting, perfectly spiced, and the ideal ending to your first full Paso day.

Day 2: Downtown to Westside Wineries

Morning: Coffee - Spearhead

Paso mornings move slow – and since there’s no shortage of good coffee here, I’m perfectly okay with that. My first choice is Spearhead, where I always ask for the raw milk (a must if you’re a latte fiend) and go for the honeycomb latte if it’s in season. But I’d be remiss not to mention Amstrdm, a rising-star coffee spot run by a husband-and-wife duo roasting all their own beans just a few miles away at their Atascadero location. The downtown Paso location doubles as a music lounge and I’m told it boasts some pretty impressive talent.

If you’d rather stay close, pop down the street to H. Cheval Coffee for something cozy and classic. Or skip the shoes altogether and head to Pine Street Bistro, which pours La Colombe and serves excellent breakfast options right inside The Ava.

Mornings are my favorite time to wander, and on this trip I stumbled into a brand-new sourdough bakery called Black Sheep specializing in cinnamon buns that were, quite frankly, divine.

Lunch: Parchetto

Lunch is at Parchetto, the newest spot from the husband-and-wife team behind one of my longtime Paso favorites, Il Cortile and it’s every bit as good. Nestled right downtown, Parchetto blends the charm of old-world Italy with that breezy California sensibility Paso does so well.

The space itself feels intimate but lively, with a polished bistro vibe that makes you want to linger. The menu changes with the seasons, but the steak salad (featuring Mighty Cap Mushrooms - details ahead!) was the standout on my visit. Perfectly seared, beautifully dressed, and the perfect way to fuel myself before a day of wine-tasting. Of course, if you need to wet your whistle before that gets going I’d personally opt for a glass of local rosé which is as perfect a pairing as it is “hydrating.” You do you though.

Afternoon

After lunch, it’s time to head west — literally. The Westside of Paso Robles is home to some of the region’s most acclaimed vineyards and wineries, thanks to its diverse microclimates, calcareous soils, and the cooling influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean. It’s a little hillier, a little wilder, and honestly, the drive alone is worth the trip. This is where Paso’s winemaking really flexes to make elegant Rhône-style blends, bold Zinfandels, and Cabernet Sauvignon that rivals…well…you know

Wine Tasting: Booker Vineyard

Booker is one of those wineries that defines modern Paso. They’ve earned an international cult following for their bold, slightly rebellious style — but don’t let any irreverence fool you. Their focus is on Rhône varieties, farmed organically and certified regenerative, crafted by some of the best winemakers in the business. What really stands out is how seamlessly they combine power with polish. It’s not easy to exercise restraint when the pony wants to gallop — but like Rip Wheeler, they keep the reins tight and somehow make it look as effortless as Beth Dutton downing a double Tito’s on the rocks.

I was lucky enough to taste in the “treehouse” which I’d highly recommend if you have the chance. The sun-drenched room gives you crystal clear views of the property and feels like a private little oasis. It’s just up the hill from the tasting room which is equal parts, sleek, modern, and cozy.

Wine Tasting: Thacher Winery

Where Booker feels chic and architectural, Thacher is its rustic, soulful counterpart. Mind the free-range chickens roaming this family-owned property and do stop to take a photo next to the old wagon. Set on a century-old horse ranch, Thacher leans into minimal-intervention winemaking that allows the fruit (and the land) to do the talking. Expect fresh, lighter-bodied Zinfandels and Rhône blends that somehow manage to feel both complex and easygoing. It’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down, stay for one more pour, and remember why you came to Paso in the first place.

Just don’t get too cozy because we do have plans this evening…

Evening: Winemaker Dinner at Sensorio

When the sun starts to dip, there’s only one place to be: Sensorio.

If you haven’t been yet, picture 100,000 glowing orbs spread across rolling hills, pulsing in waves of color that shift with the music and the breeze. I know — you can’t. It’s impossible to describe, but trust me: it’s a must-do and one of the reasons I think Paso is in a class of its own. Created by British artist Bruce Munro, Field of Light is one of those rare experiences that actually lives up to the hype.

Over the years, I’ve loved watching Sensorio evolve with new exhibitions and expanded food offerings. But on this visit, I got to experience it in a completely new way: through their brand-new Winemaker Dinner Series. Each evening features a local winery, a multi-course menu, and front-row seats for that epic transformation from golden sunset to a glowing sea of light. It’s a “you have to see it to believe it” kind of thing that can’t be adequately captured in pictures, but trust me when I say it’s a can’t miss.

On this night, Eberle Winery was the featured guest, and the pairing of Paso-grown Syrah with the illuminated landscape felt almost poetic. The best part? You have the place to yourself. The place shuts down just for the event which means after dinner you can refill your glass and take an evening stroll through the installations at your own pace. It’s art, wine, and place coming together in a way that taps into every sense and in addition to special rotating experiences like this, Sensorio is open year round to enjoy.

Day 3: Mushrooms, Meals, and Magic

Morning: Tour: Mighty Cap Mushrooms

Day three kicks off with… mushrooms.
Yes, you read that right.

I know it sounds unexpected, but that’s exactly why I love it. Mighty Cap Mushrooms is a small but mighty farm tucked inside Tin City, where founder Chris Batlle has quietly become the mushroom supplier for some of the best restaurants on the Central Coast.

The space feels equal parts science experiment and art installation: rows of misting racks, shelves glowing with growing caps, and a contagious enthusiasm that makes you rethink everything you know about mushrooms. It’s weirdly mesmerizing and the perfect palate cleanser between wine tastings. Because, balance.

Afternoon: Lunch/Wine Tasting: Niner Wine Estates

And since we’re all about balance, we’re doing a two-for-one special at our next stop: lunch and a wine tasting at one of Food & Wine’s “Best Winery Restaurants in America,” Niner Wine Estates.

Set in the Willow Creek District, this family-owned estate is where everything — and everyone — feels in sync. The tasting room was buzzing with members savoring a menu built around ingredients straight from the chef’s garden. I caught the last gasp of tomato season and some early carrots to start, but there’s plenty to tempt you.

The Iberico pork was the standout — tender, flavorful, and perfect with their Jespersen Ranch Pinot Noir on a slightly chilly day. But if you want to go full Paso (and revisit those mushrooms from earlier), order the Etto casarecce with cherry tomato and Mighty Cap mushroom pesto. Etto is a local pasta maker I discovered on my last trip, and now I order it anytime it pops up on a menu because it’s just that good.

Wine Tasting: McPrice Myers Winery

If Paso had a “greatest hits” album, McPrice Myers would be track one.

Winemaker Mac Myers has been doing his thing here for years, and it shows. Big, expressive Rhône blends that somehow still have restraint. The Beautiful Earth Red (yes, the one that landed on Wine Spectator’s Top 100) is the headliner, but the rest of the lineup (including my personal favorite, Grenache) deserves equal billing.

The new tasting room is modern but unfussy and the kind of place where you can geek out on soil types one minute and debate football the next. Go Birds 

The wines have personality, just like the people pouring them, and they’re the kind that make you immediately start figuring out how to fit another bottle in your suitcase. They do (thankfully) ship.

Spirits Tasting: Re:Find Distillery

If you think you’ve hit your wine limit (I respect your optimism), it’s time for a little spirits detour.

Re:Find Distillery was Paso’s first craft distillery and the spark that started the town’s now-thriving distillery trail. Owners Alex and Monica Villicana upcycle grape juice from local wineries into gin, vodka, and whiskey in a move that’s equal parts sustainable and genius. I tasted with Alex, who couldn’t be a nicer or more insightful guy. It was a perfect reminder of why I love this place and what makes it so special.

Evening: Dinner: Grace and Rose

I’ll admit, I was a little disappointed not to revisit some of my longtime Paso favorites this trip. I’ve had unforgettable meals at Il Cortile, LPC, and In Bloom. But when more than a few locals told me their favorite new spot in town was Grace & Rose, I knew sacrifices must be made.

Housed in a 110-year-old farmhouse downtown and run by the same beloved husband and wife team behind Paso Robles Wine Merchant, it’s everything you want for a final night in Paso — cozy, seasonal, and quietly stylish, with a wine list that boasts several gems from around Paso. Many even had a little age on them, which is always a thrill. And since I was lucky enough to have Jason Haas of Tablas Creek as my dining companion, I thought it was the perfect excuse to order a bottle of 2011 Villa Creek from the list. Of course the real wine star of the show that evening was the unicorn he brought along: a single-variety Counoise. This slightly obscure Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape rarely (if ever?) gets to be the star of the show, but Tablas Creek (the sister winery to Château de Beaucastel in the Southern Rhône) has made it their mission to plant all thirteen of the appellation’s varieties here in California. Only a handful of cases of this Counoise exist, and it’s not exactly for sale, so tasting it alongside dinner felt like a true insider’s moment.

As for the food? More Etto pasta, more Mighty Cap Mushrooms (I warned you I can’t get enough) and some of the best Brussels sprouts I’ve ever had. In the end, no sacrifices were actually made as Grace & Rose handily rose to the top of my favorite Paso restaurants list and I left a very happy (very full) camper.

Optional Nightcap: The Remedy

If you’ve got one more drink in you (you know you do), make a reservation at The Remedy, a hidden speakeasy tucked behind my favorite Paso bar, The Alchemist’s Garden. After being whisked through a stealthy side entrance, you’ll sink into an oversized chair as a bar cart glides over for tableside service. Expect liquid-nitrogen theatrics and the kind of precision usually reserved for Michelin kitchens — only without the pretense.

I went with my usual, a Vesper, which only sounds boring if you’ve never had theirs. Every cocktail here is extraordinary, but the experience can get a little dangerous if you’ve got an early flight… and a wandering eye.

Did I mention you’re surrounded by lockers filled with some of the best bourbons, whiskies, and spirits on the planet? There’s a pun about a toy store in there somewhere, but by this point in the night, I’m too tired to make it.

Day Four: Farewell for now

Did you have a great time? I know you did. But you probably want (ahem, need) some caffeine…

If you’re heading to the SLO airport, make one final stop at Amstrdm Coffee Co. in Atascadero for a latte. As mentioned, they roast their own beans here and since it’s where many of the locals live, you may find yourself asking to borrow the sugar from the gal who made your favorite wine. The kind of place that feels cozy, quaint, and uniquely California, it’s the perfect west coast end to a perfect 3 days.